EMERSON ON HURUMZI AND EMERSONSPICE SECRET GARDEN - STONETOWN, ZANZIBAR — Navager

On our recent trip to Zanzibar, we had about 12 hours in stone town. Along with exploring the spice market and the beautiful doors of the town, we decided to make a quick stop at Emerson on Hurumzi for Lunch followed by Evening drinks in Emerson Spice at their Secret Garden.

EMERSON SPICE VS. EMERSON ON HURUMZI

There are two Emerson properties, Emerson Spice and Emerson on Hurumzi, which are only a five-minute walk from each other and conveniently located in the heart of Stone Town. The hotels were founded by the late Emerson Skeens, who lovingly bought, converted, and restored traditional Zanzibari merchant's homes into each boutique hotel and very clearly poured his passion for history, design, and culture into them. Every single detail - from the colour washed walls, the locally produced soaps, and towels, to the refreshing local hibiscus juice you receive at check in - has been carefully and thoughtfully curated.

If you're trying to decide between which of the properties to stay in, the only real difference between them is the vibe each one gives off. Emerson Spice was created in 2006 after Emerson on Hurumzi, so it gives off a slightly more refined and modern feel. Emerson Spice is a bit larger and airier and easier to spot from the outside thanks to its massive wraparound balconies. Emerson on Hurumzi felt more intimate and down to earth and had an easy going vibe. Though no matter your preference, you honestly can't go wrong with either one.

Emerson on Hurumzi - Stone town, Zanzibar

Emerson Spice is a bit newer and it shows. Emerson on Hurumzi is more rustic and rawer, showing its age a bit, which we really loved. Both hotels were unique and had a traditional Zanzibari vibe. You can see the cultural of Zanzibar – the Arabic, the Indian and the Swahili – in the colors, the art, the furniture, the architecture – in everything throughout the hotel. Emerson on Hurumzi also has a small art gallery at the hotel.

Food is a bit of an event at both properties, and we feel lucky to have enjoyed most of their dining experiences. We had lunches on the rooftop Tea House at Emerson on Hurumzi, drinks at sunset at the new Emerson Spice Secret Garden. And while we didn’t always know exactly what was listed on the menu — which always incorporates seasonal and local foods — it was always delicious.

The rooftop Tea House restaurants at both properties are slightly different. The one at Emerson Spice has a table and chair setting, while the restaurant at Emerson on Hurumzi offers seated cushions on Persian rugs, with a "shoes off" policy. For both restaurants, we highly recommend you call ahead and make reservations because they are very popular and fill up quickly. Lunch starting 12 pm onwards, Dinner typically is served promptly at 7pm, but make sure you get there at around 6pm to watch the sunset with a cocktail and make the most of the experience. We explored the Tea House at Emerson on Hurumzi during Lunch time.

Lunch in the Tea House Restaurant (Emerson on Hurumzi)

Retaining many of the original elements, Emerson on Hurumzi will take you back in time to the 19th-century trading hub that Stone Town once was. The intricate lace-like woodwork, rich fabrics, and colonial-style furniture won’t let you forget that you’re staying in a former mansion of a rich merchant family. If you’re looking for the best view in town, pick the Keep Suite or Suite Tour. Both have outdoor terraces where you can relax on a pile of pillows and marvel at the panorama.

The rooftop Tea House Restaurant Dining Experience offers refreshing drinks, lunch celebrating the pleasure of Zanzibar cuisine fused with oriental Persian and Omani influences, as well as traditional Taarab performances by accomplished musicians from the Dhow Countries Music Academy.

Lunch in the Tea House restaurant is served between 12h00 and 16h00 (last kitchen orders at 15.30).

Seating is on cushions by a low table or on regular height seats, all with views over Stone Town and the sea. In the afternoon, we were offered different lunch platters, one with a variety of vegetarian, fish or seafood dishes. Luckily we happened to be the only ones there and had the whole place to ourselves.

The Tea House Rooftop Restaurant is one of the highest spots in Stone Town, its open sides affording a wonderful 360-degree panorama across the rooftops. Colourful rugs soften the floor and guests are usually seated on brightly coloured Zanzibari cushions, set around the edge of the room behind low wooden tables. (That said, there are also tables and chairs next to the central terrace for guests who would prefer these.)

For both lunch & dinner in the Tea House Restaurant at Emerson on Hurumzi is by reservation only and, as there is only limited seating, a deposit is required for the booking’s confirmation. There is one exclusive sitting for dinner only, and service begins promptly at 19h00, but we welcome dinner guests from 18h00 to enjoy the spectacular views of sea and city.

We decided to order a Vegetarian & Samaki Sinia from the menu which included Falafel & coconut chutney, Mateja’s curry with salad & rice along with Fish Kofta, Kingfish Bizari and everything was delicious.

Secret Garden at Emerson Spice

Emerson Spice – with a twinkling blue fountain set in an interior courtyard – is also well designed. Reminiscent of a Moroccan riad, this courtyard is a cool, palm-filled walled garden, with a swinging seat and a hammock. Large carved wooden doors open into a cool, blue entrance hall and reception, filled with carved furniture and chaises lounges. Towards the back of the house, the Secret Garden is a rustic, open-air courtyard restaurant, a former marketplace now artfully transformed with tables, potted palms and artworks amid the crumbling walls – which is particularly popular at night. A local taarab band (a traditional Swahili orchestra) sometimes plays in the gallery above the garden.

Up a wooden staircase are the guest rooms, each with its own theme, and unique in style, layout and size. 'Aida' room looks out over the 'Secret Garden' and has a balcony.

Set amidst lushly landscaped hidden ruins, open to the skies, the Secret Garden offers a Zanzibari inspired à la carte menu which offers. If you are in Zanzibar – we highly recommend to spend the afternoon there.